Valentino SS 2017

On coming back - PFW Valentino SS17

Fashion world is a funny place. It’s a home-ground for dualities. There is so much beauty but along with it insecurity. There is so much novelty but barely any successful come backs. Security is not a well-known word in the fashion industry. Designers who made their names are under the pressure to perform, new-comers are under the pressure to stay. As the seasons change nobody knows what the next one will bring.


There was a lot of excitement when Maria Grazia Chiuri a part of very successful Valentino design partnership was appointed to become a first female creative director of Christian Dior. But as a devoted admirer of Valentino my first question was what will happen with the fashion house? Worries and speculations filled the air. However all were gone after the clock pointed 3 p.m. on October 2nd when the Valentino SS 17 fashion show took place. Pierpaolo Piccioli proved that the end is just a new beginning. “The past is a delicate thing, it can keep you firmly rooted or it can push you to new horizons. I chose a new beginning” – said the designer after his first solo collection.


Inspired by Bosch’s triptych, the Garden of Earthly Delights, and incorporating exclusively made prints by Zandra Rhodes, famous British designer of the 70s and 80s, the collection both preserved the delicate beauty we used to see in Valentino’s house designs yet pushed the boundaries and surprised with amazing daywear. Plush, patters, brocades, cuts, vivid colors – all are beyond mouthwatering for fashion lovers.


Perhaps Pierpaolo Piccioli is a rare example of succeeding in both dualities: as a part of a designers’ duo and as a solo Creative Director; as a praised designer and as an incredibly fortuitous beginner. While the last applauses for the collection die there is a lesson in Piccioli’s journey to his solo position for all of us to listen to. And push to new horizons we shall.


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